Mushroom ethanolic extracts as cosmeceuticals ingredients: Safety and ex vivo skin permeation studies

Abstract Mushrooms are important sources of natural bioactive compounds that are increasingly used as cosmeceutical ingredients. In this context, ethanolic extracts were prepared from Ganoderma lucidum and Pleurotus ostreatus and tested by incorporation into base cosmetic creams. In vitro safety evaluation of the extracts and cosmetic formulations prepared therefore was carried out using the MTT and LDH assays in keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (HFF-1) cell lines. Moreover, they were submitted to ex vivo skin permeation studies using a Franz diffusion apparatus with pig ear skin as permeation membrane. The results showed the absence of toxicity for keratinocytes and fibroblasts in a concentration dependent manner, which is indicative of the safety of these extracts for cosmeceutical ingredients purposes. Protocatechuic and syringic acids were the only compounds permeating from G. lucidum extract in the first 8 h of study, no penetration was observed for phenolic acids found in P. ostreatus extract and formulation. These results pointed out for the suitability of using mushroom extracts as skin care ingredients and may contribute for the valorisation of wastes generated by the mushroom processing industry, which can serve as raw-materials for the obtainment of the extracts.